#54 Reflections ... A Year Later
Today, we’re going through stuff. Our house sold in early summer and fortunately the buyers wanted most of the contents, all except personal things. We’re sorting into three piles: necessities, memorabilia and garage sale. Not surprisingly, the only “necessities” remaining from a fully furnished home all fit neatly in one box and a hang up bag each. No regrets, that's just the way it is. The reality of a plan we put into motion three and half years ago is now taking its true, although somewhat unexpected form. One set of keys (our boat home), two backpacks and, well, that’s it.
A different perspective.
Recently one of our readers posted the following questions; “Do you miss land life? What is your long range plan? Anything you’d change especially regarding the size or type of vessel? What words of advice or caution to others considering this lifestyle?”
After some thought, we decided there are no short answers. Perhaps it’s time to revisit a discussion of our evolving life. Last year, as we were getting ready to leave for California, I wrote the article “Reflections ... Leaving Home” about the process of leaving our comfortable land based life. Here’s a paragraph from that entry:
Reflections ... Leaving Home (June 5, 2010)
“So at this moment we're finding it helpful to remind ourselves once again and say out loud what our reasoning is. After a lifetime of stepping off into thin air, it seems to us as though faith in a power greater than our own is the exact quality that binds us. We don't want to get so comfortable that we forget what it feels like to live each day as it is given, not fully knowing what tomorrow will bring. Is an unknown destination with uncertain cost unreasonable? It's been said that people in their final days are more regretful for what they didn't do than for what they did. Like us, everyone seems to know where their heart is leading, but often can't overcome the fear of actually doing it or even the discomfort of explaining it. It absolutely means leaving the familiar for a heaping dose of the unfamiliar.”
That was the perspective from a year ago. Herewith, now, I enclose several ruminations on our evolving formula. Two disclaimers: First, this is only a snapshot in time. Our ideas are constantly changing. Second, this isn’t for everyone. Only what we think works for us.
Less is More
Migratory boat life has been one of the most invigorating, challenging and vocationally satisfying retirement occupations imaginable. Our sense of accomplishment is high. It keeps our minds and bodies exercised to the fullest. But the unvarnished truth is: it requires the full-time attention of both of us working together and does not yield well to legacy obligations. We can’t keep our past life’s plates spinning and do this at the same time. As we shed assets and commitments, we have rediscovered an age old truth first hand ... less is more. Fewer things is good for us.
Faith and Family
We don’t view our life aboard as escapism or vacation. The fundamentals of life’s rules don’t change even though our surroundings do. We are sensing a greater awareness of personal identity, family, faith and mission.
The challenge is we miss the support structures of home such as our church and those we trust implicitly through experience, maybe to the point of complacency. Boat life is forcing us to take more initiative in living out our faith. We have our ups and downs, but it seems as though making the effort provides us with comforting stability.
Then there is family, particularly our children and grandchildren. We don’t see them every day as we used to. We’re thankful our two daughters and their husbands are good parents which grants us peace of mind. Every six weeks or so we’ll travel home and move into alternating households for a week devoting nearly all our time to family. This super immersion is giving us a completely different grandparent experience than we had before. They all love Eliana too, so occasionally we get the chance to reverse roles.
Internet is an important part of the formula. One that wouldn’t have been possible until recently. Our KVH V7 satellite service comes with two Kansas City phone numbers 24 / 7 and full time Internet about the speed of DSL. Our cell phones work OK domestically within range of a cell tower. They are, however, unreliable in places we often go and data service is usually not good or outrageously expensive. Local WIFI hotspots are notoriously hit and miss. In my opinion, the structural integrity and ubiquitous coverage of the KVH is a necessity, not a luxury.
We have used the KVH even more than we thought. It goes without saying we use it for family and business. It’s also been invaluable for planning routes, destinations, arranging services, getting news and entertainment, tracking weather, placing orders for delivery to our next destination, driving directions, banking and paying bills. With KVH we’re only minutes away from essential answers to questions and problems. In an emergency, it’s comforting to know we can make a telephone call at any time. The KVH is without question the most important safety equipment aboard.
We get all of what’s left of our land mail by Internet. It’s forwarded to Janelle, who opens, scans and places it in our Dropbox account which automatically downloads to Eliana’s server. All of our records are stored electronically, so this step dovetails with the rest of our document storage.
The flip side is television. We elected not to have a satellite television receiver on Eliana. Missed it at first. We selectively download a couple of favorite shows and will watch an occasional movie. Honestly, there isn’t much worth watching. News and current events come from the Internet.
Good health is part of the formula. We believe our physical and mental well being is critical. With an increased awareness of health we have targeted four things: eating right, plenty of rest, exercise and safety.
Debbie cooks almost every meal so we know what we’re eating and rarely eat out. Her method is (as she says) “simple ingredients prepared simply”. We have found fresh fruit and vegetables to be abundant and inexpensive except in the most remote areas. Proteins on the other hand are feast or famine, so we are learning to freeze fish and meat in two person portions. We like at least 60 days worth in the freezer. Every night she pulls out the proteins she wants for the next day to defrost. We drink water and a glass or two of wine each night.
The cardinal rule given to all guests staying aboard Eliana is to get plenty of rest. Force oneself to rest. Food digests better, activities are safer, energy is higher which improves alertness on watch. In a year where we had a number of guests get seasick, we’ve found getting more rest helps prevent or combat it. Conversely, nothing good happens when people are tired.
Living aboard is good exercise by itself. Not as much cardio, and nothing as good as Rebecca’s Pilates class, but still boat activity promotes strength, stretching and balance. We also work to find opportunities ashore for cardio such as running. One of the most effective workouts we’ve discovered is washing Eliana. It’s about 5 hours for the two of us but when we’re finished, it feels like we spent an entire day at the gym.
It’s easy to get hurt on a boat. Once I hurried outside barefooted and caught my toe on the edge of a scupper hole. Broke the toe, and definitely slowed me down for a while. So now we intentionally go about each activity slowly and methodically keeping safety in mind and, of course, wear shoes outside when working!
We sold the cars and now rent which fits our new formula well. We always have a clean, maintained car that way and can match the type of vehicle to the situation. Nobody has to pick us up at the airport or take us back. No worries about garage, tires, cleaning, maintenance or tags as we used to. Since we only rent a portion of total days, it’s cheaper.
We have learned a couple of lessons. First is to focus most of the rentals with one company rather than shopping each rental. It’s easier and through loyalty benefits we believe we’re paying less and getting better service. The other lesson is rental insurance. Daily coverages are expensive, so we decline all of them. American Express has an outstanding rental car coverage for $25 per rental with no deductible regardless of how many days the rental is. It’s a great program.
While pricing a marina last year I commented to the salesman that I felt the rate was too high. The salesman said they charge a higher rate for bigger boats because they don’t think the owners care and slip fees must be pocket change for them. I told him that as logical as that may sound, in our case it isn’t so. We think controlling cost is important for sustaining a successful, full time cruising career.
Our priorities are almost exactly reverse of the seasonal boater. We aren’t as concerned about ownership cost because it’s spread over an entire year of full time boating. Besides it doubles as a home. There isn’t much we can do about it anyway. Ongoing expense is more important. The six primary expenses in order are fuel, internet, travel, insurance, maintenance and slip rental. Being astute with these makes up for a multitude of errors on everything else.
The most important budget lesson we’ve learned is to do as much as we can ourselves. The more we do, the less we spend and the happier we are. We make fewer phone calls, interview less, wait less, give fewer instructions, oversee less and have less to dispute later. Remember, that as we move from place to place we have to deal with a new set of vendors and all the rigamarole that goes with it. So as part of our formula, self sufficiency is the key to freedom. We’re learning to do everything possible ourselves, even things we haven’t done before.
Boat Choice and Boat Life
The boat that works into our formula is one that functions like a home in every way we were accustomed to. It doesn’t need to be as large, but it must serve the same purposes. Eliana is proving to fit that requirement. The space works well for just the two of us or with guests. In answer to the question, “Do you miss land life?”, My response is ... other than the changing neighborhood, there isn’t that much difference. In fact, when not underway it’s easy to forget we’re living on a boat!
The next point is Eliana must be manageable by the two of us. If she requires paid crew, the idea loses its appeal. To do that, we have divided responsibilities. When at rest (which is most of the time), Debbie focuses on household and I on the boat. We thrive on routine mental checklists for our duties. When underway, we divide tasks and coordinate each step by discussing it before and after. By talking through and rating how things went, we have improved many processes through time. Cross training or alternating responsibilities haven’t worked as well for us. One activity we do together is exterior washing. Even then we work better by dividing the task. I wash while she dries. I like it this way because it gives me complete control of the hose so I can spray her down if she gets out of line.
The third part of the boat formula is flexibility and safety. Because of her weight, Eliana is supremely safe and comfortable at rest or underway in a wide variety of sea and conditions. Coupled with fuel efficiency and range it’s possible to make travel decisions that a coastal boat might not consider.
Did we choose the right brand and model? Nordhavn isn’t the only company to build great boats. I believe, however, the Nordhavn philosophy matches our objectives the best. All the models are built to high standards with the above cruising formula in mind. Any are perfectly satisfactory based on personal preference. Just because we chose as we did, I wouldn’t question for a second the competency of other sizes or arrangements.
In our first year of cruising we spent most of the time learning and boating. We put almost 8,000 miles on Eliana, spent hundreds of nights at anchor, visited dozens of marinas and had many guests. Her systems are now well tested. Any defects have been exposed and fixed. Everything is becoming more routine for us. We think we’re ready to modify our travel formula by expanding our activity beyond the boat.
During the coming year, we plan to slow the pace and travel more land side by car. This requires us to select a few locations along our itinerary for an ‘extended stay’ of at least one month. Most marinas offer lower monthly rates and the slower pace reduces the planning that accompanies each movement. Of course the journey between each extended stay will be made up by a combination of many short stops and/or long multiple day passages as we’ve gotten accustomed to.
Over the next 12 - 18 months we plan to progress toward the Panama Canal. Extended stays of one month or more will begin with San Francisco, then southern California, two or three stays in Mexico, a stay in El Salvador, possibly Nicaragua and finally a long stay in Costa Rica before reaching Panama. All subject to change!
I intended to report on the annual inspections which are just finishing up for Eliana and her equipment. Most of it I was able to do myself. There isn’t much to report as everything is in excellent shape and ready to go. I may cover some of it in future posts.
Thanks for reading Eliana’s Journal. We appreciate your interest. Please feel free to post your questions or comments. The link below will take you directly to the website. Also, if interested you can go back to the original “Reflections ... Leaving Home” post from June 5, 2010.
We’ll be looking for a weather window for our first move south approximately mid September. You may use the Track Eliana link below to follow our progress.
Mileage: 7,378 Miles
Hello Rick and Debbie.
I have been reading your blog and found it to be very interesting. Your trip to San Fransico sounded like a great trip.
I have two questions for you the first is when you purchased you boat you ordered a single main engin configuration. After a year of operation have you had any second thoughts about this and felt that the extra power of twin engins were needed at any time considering the size of your boat.
My second question is have you found that your operating expeces for the boat,( fuel,insurance,boat maintenance and or repairs,moorage,shore power, etc) not including food and entertainment were what you expected.
I am a wnanabe yacht owner but I am more inclined towards the Nordhavn 68.
Hope to hear from you.
We have found the single engine to be adequate. In fact, we struggle to keep it loaded well. At normal cruise, the loading is about 35%. We never use more than 50% unless we're running WOT to exercise it. From a handling standpoint, I prefer the main / wing configuration over two mains. In the main / wing configuration, the wing is running at high RPM during docking and anchoring which provides 100% thrusting power at all times while the main is idling for delicate forward and reverse.
Our expenses are actually lower than we expected in the beginning, mostly because we anticipated needing to hire far more things than we do. The more we do ourselves the less our expenses are. We use less slightly less fuel than we thought we would. And here's another good example: We thought our insurance would be between $40K to $50K per year based on the percentage of boat value we had heard from other boat owners. Instead it's $21K for a full coverage policy. Moorage is a big item when not traveling, but then we don't have fuel expense then. We have spent a lot of money building up our spares inventory, but we're getting near the end of that. All in all, our expenses are lower than we spent on a land home, what with property tax and all.
by Sheldon in Victoria B.C. on Sep 23, 2011, 12:12 AM EST
Rick and Debbie, congratulations on leading the larger Nordhavn owner/operator group. You will be an inspiration to many. You have a lot to look forward to. Scott and Mary m/y Egret
by Unknown on Sep 15, 2011, 09:15 AM EST
Hello Rick and Debbie:
I wanted to extend an invitation to you when you head towards the Panama canal. I live in Huatulco, Oaxaca, Mexico and have met many Nordhavn owners passing through on their way up or down the Pacific coast of Mexico. It would be great to meet the two of you. Let me know you schedule and if I'm in town I would love to welcome you to the area. The name of the local marina is Marina Chahue so if it's in your plans to do a layover in Huatulco be sure to give me a shout out via an email.
Thanks to the both of you for helping me keep my dream alive.
by Monte (Nordhavn Dreamer) on Sep 14, 2011, 09:13 PM EST
SUBJECT: Thank you!
Dear Rick and Debbie:
It is a rare event in our lives when we are brave enough to face the unknown by going after a dream. Your dreams have been large and we greatly admire what you are doing. We especially enjoyed your last posting. Thanks for keeping us so well informed of your journey.
by Jim Love on Sep 10, 2011, 05:50 PM EST
Rick & Debbie - Great update! We just closed on the sale of our house on Wed, but I don't think we've done nearly as good a job as you of divesting things! Hoping we'll meet up with you in a couple years or so, after you get through the Panama Canal!
Bradley & Kathy
by Kathy Clark on Sep 09, 2011, 09:09 AM EST
Great blog! Seems like you've taken to boating like a duck to water.
I'm really interested in your checklists, what you do at the dock and while cruising. It must take a lot of care, and I'm quite impressed that the two of you are handling such a large yacht. If you have your routines down, though, it must make life easier.
All The Best,
We began with written checklists and followed them faithfully. But it didn't take long for us work out a mental image of the tasks and order in which they come that we no longer needed to carry paper and place check marks. Getting underway works like this ... I start in the engine room and work to the wheelhouse preparing the boat. Debbie is securing the interior at the same time, then moving to the deck / dock to get her part ready. Once both have finished their preparation, we always meet together to discuss things like wind, current, traffic, things to watch for, etc, etc. Once that's done, running the boat and handling the lines are relatively easy as we do it slowly and methodical. Arrivals work the same way. We always begin with a planning meeting between together before we even get close. Eliana always arrives slowly (or I like to say stately). Usually no drama.
by Ken H. on Sep 08, 2011, 02:23 PM EST
Hello Rick and Debbie
Thank you for such an incredible update on Eliana and your new life. It is more than gracious and important that you have shared your experiences of the first year. Most couples, such as myself, planning on cruising within the next year are beginning the process of arranging, letting go of and wondering what it will be like.
It brings me great comfort to read about your journey not just because of the technicalities that you present but by the display of following your faith. Following your knowing and following your inner calling does not always seem logical to the mind and yet, isn't that the biggest reason we are alive. There is something about sharing that aspect of yourself that has validated my own inner quest to follow a silent intelligence that says...get on your boat and go now!
I love that you both do not watch TV. Our family has given that up several years ago. We enjoy the occassional movie as you too have and appreciate your view of it aboard a boat. I also love your sharing about grandchildren and family. This is important to me and I enjoyed hearing your solutions to it. I am looking forward to reading more about the adventures of Eliana. Maybe we shall meet on the water too.
Blessings and adventure
Robin and Vickie Helm
by Vickie on Sep 08, 2011, 11:40 AM EST
Hi Rick and Debbie,
Like many others I thoroughly enjoy your blog. The pictures are always fun to look at and your commentary is very well written and informative. I found one comment in your "Reflections ...a year later" post quite interesting and I can't wait to see the picture related to it (if it's ever taken). This would be the picture of you about a minute after you hosed Debbie down for getting out of line! ;o)
Kidding aside, thank-you for sharing your travels with us and keep safe.
by Brian on Sep 08, 2011, 02:12 AM EST
I must say that reading your blog has been enlightening to me. I thank you for your insight on living aboard as thats what I would like to do on a Nordhavn. I am one of the NH Dreamers and have been following Eliana for some time. I am trying to convince my wife about this exciting alternative to buying a house in Florida and tying myself to one place. My problem is she just doesn't think of it as a substitute for a home and she doesn't think I can run it. That's why I am so encouraged by you and your wife. I think it's a healthier lifestyle with so much going for it. I was also a little daunted by size that can be handled by two people. You seem to be doing just fine with a 72. Please don't stop writing. It's one of the things I look forward to.
by Mike Katsoris on Sep 07, 2011, 11:42 PM EST
Hey there! No questions this time, just a great big thank you for sharing your reflections. It's always a pleasure to read your prose, Rick. Now, give us techies some boat stuff!!
by Cedric on Sep 07, 2011, 10:37 PM EST
Bravo! Thank you for sharing your life's adventures. Cheers!
by Robert A. on Sep 07, 2011, 09:30 PM EST
Not trying to hijack your thread or anything, but there is a face book group called Nordhavndreamers full of information about people that have the same interests as you, and in fact the same boats. Feel free to peruse the page if you wish. Here is the link:
http://www.facebook.com/NordhavnDreamers?sk=wall : ) I enjoy anything and everything you post especially the pictures.
by Unknown on Sep 07, 2011, 09:17 PM EST
SUBJECT: Planning our first trip
You cannot imagine what enjoyment I have gotten since George shared your adventure with me. The last posting was exceptional, my wife Claire and I just bought a 12 meter Trojan double cabin and are planning to set off Labor day next year form up state NY, the Capital Region to GA. Then start exploring FL and who know where else.
The questions that came up first is while a Garmin Chart Plotter 3010c is well suited for the boat, what charts complement traveling and planning the best? I am a pilot so very familiar with Jeppsen, but truly I am looking for advice. “ Summer Daze” the name of our new boat has a satellite system on it that currently supports three televisions, I expect that is going to help us make the transition from land to boat. Does the same satellite system accommodate communication also? I understand weather satellite is an absolute necessity, any preferences?
I must stop, I have dozens of questions as I lay in bed at night thinking about this trip. I have included a picture of “Summer Daze.” Twin CAT 3208T with a 10kw genset and 2500w inverter. She has been to FL once with the current owner.
Stan and Claire
The best US charts in my opinion are the NOAA raster charts. Outside the US, that's not always the case. That said, I believe it's important to have redundancy. The second set should be vector charts because they are easier to read in a variety of situations. For example, you can read depths clearly regardless of zoom setting. Of the vector offerings, I use Jeppesen on Eliana.
The satellite receivers for television are separate from ones designed for telephone and internet. They both require mounting in a dome with a clear, unobstructed view of the sky. Eliana has just one dome for Internet and telephone. With Internet we can get virtually any weather information there is although we have to go to the computer to get it. We have not subscribed to Sirius Marine weather which does conveniently show up right on the chart plotter.
by Stanley Liebert on Sep 07, 2011, 08:10 PM EST
i laughed when i read "we drink plenty of water" because i remembered when i was there, you had your cup next to the little sink and i kept putting them in the dishwasher thinking, "where do these cups keep coming from??" it took me a day or so to figure out that was your "safe place" for your drinking glass. HA!
but i would still be most willing to teach you guys First Aid and CPR and such things if you're still interested! i'm so glad that this has been everything you hoped it would be and more. i would love to learn more about it, as i was completely and totally romanced by the life style when i stayed with you guys! and i'm excited to see all the other adventures that you embark on.
-- (niece) emily.
by emily on Sep 07, 2011, 07:58 PM EST
Rick and Debbie,
Thanks for your wonderful Blog! Although I have never met you, your writing tells me tons about you. May God continue to bless you on this Great Adventure of Life!
Cheers, Farley Shane
by Farley on Sep 07, 2011, 07:46 PM EST